MASALA BAKED FRENCH FRIES

Photography by Rakhee Bhatt

While most of the country seemed to be pandemic baking sourdough bread and other flour-based goods earlier this year, I found my way toward french fries. My newfound interest was piqued in large part because I had never made fries at home, and potatoes——unlike flour——were plentiful at the markets in my neighborhood. Plus…is a reason ever needed to want fries?

Long before 2020 came along, I wanted to venture into making more of the items I typically eat outside in the comfort of my own home. French fries were at the top of the list thanks to Michael Pollan, who has been writing and lecturing on the intersection of agriculture, food, and the environment for over 30 years. Pollan is a proponent of cooking at home in general——especially foods like french fries——due to the quality of the ingredients and the preparation method being typically superior than its counterparts elsewhere. While there are more restaurants adopting a farm-to-table approach, cooking more frequently at home is one of the best ways to support local farmers.

“If we decide to outsource all our cooking to corporations, we’re going to have industrial agriculture,” said Pollan to the New York Times. “And the growth of local, sustainable and organic food, and farmers’ markets, is going to top out if people don’t cook. Because big buys from big, and I have little faith that corporations will ever support the kind of agriculture we want to see. That’s why the most important front in the fight to reform the food system today is in your kitchen.”

In honor of the mighty potato and my Indian roots, this masala baked french fries recipe blends the savory with the spicy. It combines Russet Burbank and Yukon Gold potatoes for a varied texture taste, but you can stick solely to the classic Russet Burbank if preferred. To get the fries browned and crispy, take cut potatoes and soak in cold water for 15 minutes to remove the excess starch. Another tip is to place the fries on cooling racks on top of baking sheets to let the hot air evenly circulate in the oven. Alternatively, you can use parchment-lined baking sheets, just make sure to flip halfway through.

The classic Indian spice chaat masala——an ingredient worth keeping on hand to add a pungent, hot, salty, and sweet flavor profile to many dishes——gives a solid kick to these fries. For fellow New Yorkers, this spice can be found among a sea of amazing seasonings at Kalustyan’s, but can also be ordered online.  

The accompanying Cucumber Raita Dip, a traditional Indian condiment, helps to counterbalance the heat of these masala french fries, particularly with the addition of raw red onions. While this dip sticks to yogurt in the tried-and-true whole milk form, I have found substituting with coconut milk yogurt to be equally as delicious.

MASALA BAKED FRENCH FRIES WITH A CUCUMBER RAITA DIP

Ingredients
2 Russet Burbank potatoes
2 Yukon Gold potatoes
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons chaat masala
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
3/4 cup organic whole milk yogurt (alternatively use coconut milk yogurt)
1/2 cup English cucumber
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste

Instructions for Fries
1. Scrub and peel potatoes. Cut into 1/4-inch strips and place into a large bowl, covering with cold water. Let sit for 15 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 450°F.
3. Drain the potatoes and rinse. Transfer to a clean kitchen or paper towel and thoroughly pat dry.
4. Rinse and wipe dry the large bowl and return potatoes.
5. In a small bowl, mix olive oil, lemon juice, chaat masala, chili powder, and salt.
6. Pour masala mix over potatoes, tossing and coating evenly.
7. Take two wire cooling racks and place on top of two baking sheets. Spread the potatoes evenly over the racks, making sure to leave room between each fry.
8. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until browned and crispy.

Instructions for Dip
1. Peel and grate the cucumber. Hand squeeze or use a towel to remove as much water as possible.
2. In a bowl, mix yogurt, cucumber, cilantro, red onion, cumin, and salt.
3. Cover and chill in refrigerator until ready to use.

Bon appétit!

Originally published on October 7, 2020